Supercharger install highlights

PT Cruiser Club Customizing Tip

"Adding a supercharger to the PT Cruiser"

Installation Highlights by PTCCmike

It comes with step-by-step instructions that are pretty good, but I recommend only having a qualified technician install it. There are many items that need to be modified by grinding, drilling and tapping threads etc. The transmission and engine dipstick tubes need to be relocated / bent into a new shape. It all fits so tight under the hood, there is not much room to work on it without removing the A/C refrigerant, grill, A/C condenser and radiator.

Follow the included instructions that come with the supercharger, they are pretty good.
Don't forget to have a shop safely recover and discharge the A/C lines because you have to remove them. That cost me $50 and included the recharge afterward. Be sure to have an air powered cut-off wheel and assorted die grinder bits handy because you will need them several times. You may need some ATF and some P/S fluid to top off after the job is done. Recover the coolant into a clean drain pan for re-use or have some Mopar 5-year/100,000 mile coolant handy. The PT uses special orange colored coolant, not the green stuff! Tip: If you already have over 20,000 miles, I recommend inspecting the P/S and A/C belt at time of install because you could replace them now and save some labor. You will have to replace every 40-50,000 miles thereafter along with the supercharger belt.

Things during the install that I had to improvise, that were left out of the instructions, or that you should take note of are:

#1) There is a typo on the required tool list, it calls for a 33/64" drill bit, this should be 37/64" Because I did not notice this, I used a 33/64" drill bit to make a new temp sensor hole in the thermostat housing, then used a 3/8" NPT tap to make the threads. Well, the tap I bought did not have a narrow enough tip and I did not have a 37/64" bit, so I had to ream the hole slightly bigger with a die grinder, then tap it. Good thing they did not error on a larger size.

#2) When you re-install the fuel rail, it has to be located so close to the heater tube and thermostat fitting that you have to actually rotate injector #1 and #4 inward so the connector will not rub or get broken, the injectors natural position is not to be rotated so this may seem a bit uncomfortable because the retainer clip begins to come off (once the fuel rail is in place the clip is not as critical so don't worry.) The fuel rail gets relocated lower but they do not supply you with a longer plastic fuel supply tube, I had to reroute it to take a straighter path and to fit correctly. This tube is stiff and preformed and I was uncomfortable with the stretch. I suggest that Whipple supply an extension or a longer properly formed fuel line. The interesting thing about the fuel rail is that it was originally mounted on top of the manifold with injectors firing downward. With the new intake, the injector rail mounts on the bottom and injectors fire upward.

#3) Have a plug handy to stop the power steering fluid from leaking all out after you remove the hose/tube. I used radiator hose pinch off pliers on the hose and a small 1/2" rubber or plastic cork to temporarily plug the port on the p/s pump.

#4) Have some anti-rust primer handy to spray or brush on the bare metal after grinding a section off of the inner fender (driver side) After the install is done, you wont even see it, but you do not want it to rust. Also dull the sharp edges to make it safe for future belt service.

#4a) Some early printings of the install manual did not mention that the belt tensioner tab in picture 32b needs to be removed after the drive plate is installed and before the belt. Be sure to remove it, or the belt may slip or jump a groove later on.

#5) When installing the new intake plenum, I had to remove the lower air filter box and bottom bolts of the EGR tube to make it go in the hole, then re-install. Also had to grind off some of the metal on the bottom of throttle bracket to get its bolt holes to line up to the throttle body.

#6) The computer wire harness I received had a 2 wire connector that was not mentioned in the diagram or instructions (the wires are black and red) I taped it to the harness. In a later conversation with tech support I found out that this is a diagnostic port, so just tape it to it's harness.

#7) Before drilling the 3-1/2" hole in the air box lid, you first have to cut/grind off the smaller intake port hole.

#8) I would suggest that they include a longer P/S tube that rises higher than the thermostat housing instead of having the P/S return hose pinched so tight between the charger pulley bracket and the thermostat housing. The pinched hose could fail.

#9) The automatic trans dipstick was no fun to bend into a new shape, there was no template, I did my best to locate the top of it between the air box latch and the motor lift mount. (don't put it between the injector and the vacuum valve as pictured in the instructions!) Note: it may be easier to bend this while it is installed, without the supercharger mounted yet and the air box removed. See the picture in my gallery. Also note: install the engine dipstick before you put the radiator core support back in (you have to bend that in two places, use a tubing bender so you do not kink it) After filling the fluids, P/S, coolant and supercharger oil, start it and let it warm up before you put the upper radiator core support and grill back on, that way you can look in and inspect for any coolant leaks. If alot of P/S fluid leaked out, fill it, start the engine for 15 seconds, then shut off and check again. Repeat this fill procedure until it is full, then turn the wheels a few times, shut motor off and check again. (a bit of noise is normal until the bubbles work out.)

#10) I had the allen head plug in the Aux. fuel injector leak fuel after the install and leak test. I removed the plug and added Teflon tape to it and it still leaked, so I removed it again and added even more Teflon tape and now it does not leak. That port can be used to install a fuel pressure gauge if you should ever need to test it.

#11) Before installing the upper radiator core support carefully push the radiator against the engine/supercharger and look for contact of the fan shroud against the supercharger. I had to die grind a rather large notch in the shroud at both ends of the supercharger (even after I lowered the shroud as instructed by grinding slots in the bolt holes etc.) Make sure you have at least 1/4" to 1/2" clearance to allow for engine movement. It is not good to have engine components pressing against body/radiator components or you will get more NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness) The vibrations could shorten the life of the radiator if left in a position of direct contact with the supercharger.

#12) Should I break it in?
Yes, take it easy for the first 60 miles. After the first test drive put it back in garage and inspect for coolant, P/S or oil leaks and check the levels. Check the supercharger oil level and do not overfill. The supercharger takes 5W-50 Synthetic oil included in a bottle with the install kit. I did not need the whole bottle to fill it. For the first 100 miles turn off radio and listen to the sounds. Listen for detonation / ping on acceleration, try to avoid the detonation / ping by backing off the throttle a bit if it occurs.
I had this experience: during the first 60 miles I was experiencing engine ping/detonation on accel so I took it easy on the throttle (50-75% max), at around 60 miles the ping went away with a puff of brown exhaust. I determined that this was carbon build up on top of the pistons/valves from the stock combustion process. The supercharged process has higher pressures so it cleaned out this carbon naturally.

#13) A slight rattle noise at idle from the SC is normal backlash of the rotors inside, it does not do that under load, just at idle.

#14) NEVER overfill the oil in the supercharger and if one must use less than premium gas in an emergency, be VERY careful to keep your foot soft on the throttle because major detonation can occur.

Note: Please refer to the owners manual/service manual for service information and safety precautions, this is not intended as substitute for the service manual/owners manual. This information is subject to revision or change. PTCC accepts no responsibility for any damage or injury.

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Thank you for sharing in the enjoyment.

Sincerely,

Michael J. Challis - PT Cruiser Club President and Founder
cruiser@ptcruiserclub.org
Chrysler Certified Professionals- Gold Level Technician.
Nationally Recognized Chrysler Top Tech Award Winner
ASE Certified - Master Auto Technician

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